Matsuri, High Holborn, central London

Aim for a table in the light and airy ground floor of this large and popular, contemporary Japanese restaurant. There are a myriad of set menus to choose from, such as the £25 Matsuri lunch. Bizarrely, the rib-eye terikayi, which comes with a bowl of rice, some miso soup and a modest salad, can arrive before the salmon and tuna nigiri sushi. The rib-eye is succulent and well-seasoned, but won't satisfy a big appetite. Still, the fish sushi is both fresh and filling. All the food is beautifully presented on traditional platters and in bowls accompanied by wooden chopsticks. Matsuri gets busy with local office workers on weekday lunchtimes and service by the black-shirted staff can be erratic - fortunately the 12.5% service charge is discretionary. 7/10