Opposite Brockwell Park and stranded half way between Brixton and Herne Hill, the Prince Regent is an inviting Victorian pub, which draws in a sizable contingent of drinkers and diners. It has outside tables, in the shadow of two stocky Victorian lampposts, large windows, a cosy, wood-panelled bar adjacent to a dining room with an array of big, sturdy wooden tables. The laid-back atmosphere is accentuated by the funky music, the window shelves lined with well-thumbed books and the occasional punters playing Jenga. On draught is the innocuous Black Sheep plus a guest beer and a handful of well-known lagers, such as San Miguel, Carling and Staropramen.
The Prince Regent is renown for its brunch menu, featuring a range of hot breakfasts, including kedgeree and the traditional English fry-up. For lunch or dinner, several dishes can be ordered as starters or main courses, including impressive salmon fish cakes, which are hidden under a forest of lettuce and surrounded by a delicious celeriac remoulade dressing. The starter version, which comes with just one fish cake, costs about a fiver. But a side order of fat chips, about the size of a man's forefinger, costing a hefty £3.50, can be disappointingly small, under-cooked and rather salty. Scrawled across the blackboard is a clutch of gastropub-style specials, such as rump of lamb or braised rabbit, costing a tenner upwards. The beer is also a bit pricey, suggesting the Prince Regent's success may be going to his head. 7/10
