The beaches flanking the causeway leading down to Capo Testa are the place to come the day after a storm. Big waves roll across the glittering, azure, shallow water and scores of locals and holidaymakers stride out to meet them. If you happen to be standing at the point where the surf breaks, you may get knocked off your feet and end up floundering in the water with the seaweed. If you prefer, you can laze on the fine sand, sheltered by the dunes behind, and scan the distant cliffs on the horizon. At the north end of the bay, some rickety stone steps lead up through the trees to a discreet snack bar where a handful of tables offer fine views across the bay. On the other side of the causeway is another attractive, but more sheltered, beach from where you can see Corsica on the horizon. There is a small, free car park, but in the summer you will probably have to park on the road and clamber through the dunes down to this refreshingly uncommercial and exceptional beach. 8/10
