Pape Satan, Via Lamarmora, Santa Teresa di Gallura, Sardinia

A large pizza and pasta restaurant tucked away in a side street, Pape Satan has an indoor dining room, a courtyard with circular stone tables and a spacious garden terrace sheltered by a permanent roof. Soon after you sit down, one of the smartly-dressed waitresses will place a basket of good bread, olive oil and red-wine vinegar on your lurid green paper table cloth. Most of the respectable pizzas (8-10 euros), baked in a wood-fired oven, come with generous toppings, such as large slices of Parma ham. However, the bland strips of meat on the prosciutto pizza are not so appealing, while the sweetcorn, rocket and yellow peppers in the Chef's salad can be a little limp. As Pape Satan is listed in some guide books, many of your fellow diners are likely to be tourists. The workmanlike service, which can be a little surly, doesn't really justify leaving a tip on top of the 2 euros a head cover charge. 6/10