One of a dozen or so lively restaurants competing for business inside this hip arcade in the heart of Brixton, the Grill's hearty meat dishes have made it popular with middle class south Londoners. On a Friday evening, it can he hard to get a table either inside or outside this buzzy Portuguese-English eatery. If you have to sit out in the arcade, you'll need your coat, but there are some eerie orange heaters to warm you up and you'll enjoy the vivacious Brixton Village vibe. Each main course (about a tenner apiece) comes with two accompaniments. The choice is hand-cut chips (a little soggy, but delicious all the same), basmati rice (really good) and a heavily-dressed, but slightly disappointing salad. Although the spare ribs are enormous, they can be pretty fatty and lacking in flavour. A better choice is the tasty piri-piri lamb chops, which are well seasoned and spicy. However, you only get four smallish pieces - not quite enough, especially if you go for the rice, rather than the chips. For the hungry, the succulent spring chicken is probably the best option. You can get lager on tap in a plastic glass for £3.50 a pint or you can get beer by the bottle. Tap water is free, while the bustling service is warm and welcoming. 8/10
