A traditional Portuguese establishment that makes few concessions to tourists, Velho Macedo is a good place to soak up an authentic Lisbon experience. With white table cloths, traditional crockery and wall-mounted wooden wine racks, the interior is old-school. The serious-minded waiting staff appear to speak little English and offer even less guidance, but you can't go far wrong with the seafood, which is tasty and good value. A very soft, creamy and smelly local cheese (called Azeitão) arrives unbidden, while you are waiting for the dishes you ordered. At 5.5 euros for a hefty and delicious helping, it is more than welcome. The only cause for complaint is the pricey bottled water, which seems to cost more than the beer. 7/10
