You can reach Lisbon's sprawling hilltop Mooorish castle by following Largo do Chão do Loureiro and then Costo Do Castelo. This atmospheric route will take you up some steep steps and through gnarled cobbled streets lined with appealing tiled cafes. The plentiful graffiti is a ready reminder that Lisbon is an edgy city, rather than dolled-up museum for tourists. But once you pass through the grand archway near the top of Costo Do Castelo, you'll need to pay to enter the 11th century fortress.
