It is not hard to spot regal birds of prey, preening peacocks, sinister crocodiles, lone elephants, dour buffalo and presumptuous monkeys in this watery nature reserve, which apparently spans more than 30,800 hectares. But be prepared for an early start - the safari guides recommend being at the gates at 6am to see the animals before the heat of the day. The tracks are really bumpy inside the Udawalawe park, so there is a lot of bouncing up and down in your jeep. But there are places where you are allowed to stop to have some breakfast. To hire a jeep, a guide and a driver should cost the equivalent of US$35 a head (including entrance to the park). Worth every cent. 8/10
