About an hour's drive from Marrakesh, the well-irrigated Ourika Valley is surprisingly green even at the end of a long hot summer. In early October, temperatures tend to hover in the low twenties, making hiking along the redish-pink tracks pleasant, particularly in the morning. The scenery can be captivating, but the lower reaches of the valley are littered with unfinished buildings and the main road can be pretty busy. Most of the villages, which are mostly home to Berbers, have a football team and a rough and ready football pitch.